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At "The Walnut Tree" you don't huddle over your
table, whispering to your partner for fear that others may hear. Rather, sit
inside where the music is unashamedly loud enough to really be heard and
enjoyed, where local Skopeliots are all engaged in lively banter, and SPEAK
UP. "The Walnut Tree" is lively, friendly, and down-to-earth, the
food is excellent too.
Strictly speaking, "The Walnut Tree" is a
Tsipouradiko (not an Ouzeri, nor the usual restaurant). Tsipouro is a
stronger form of Ouzo, roughly 44% proof. The Greeks are genuinely more
civilized than we northern Europeans so this hard liquor is not downed alone
but is traditionally served with an array of meze dishes.
It's fine if you don't want to touch
the stuff because "The Walnut Tree" also offers the usual beers,
and excellent inexpensive home-made wine by the carafe. But it's important
to remember you're in a Tsipouradiko because, along with family groups, you'll
probably find a number of hard-working Greeks in there, often still in their
overalls, relaxing with relish after a day's work, often singing along with
the music, and you mustn't go to "The Walnut Tree" and tut-tut
about it's rawness ... rather, relax, sit back, speak up, smile, laugh,
and enjoy the atmosphere!
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And just in case you may be worried that things could get a little out of
control at "The Walnut Tree", fear not: three charming Greek
women, one of whom speaks very good English, keep excellent command. Ask any
of them for their recommendations but don't miss their delicious
"Skopelos Cheese Pie" - a long coil of tangy goat's cheese and
herbs freshly fried in a coat of flaky filo pastry. Try also their long
fried peppers stuffed to the stalk with bacon and molten cheese! If you have
the stamina for desert then you'll marvel at the thickness of their mixture
of yoghourt, honey, and walnuts and wish you could buy yoghourt as thick
back home. |
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Proceed out of town, past the supermarkets and moped-hire shops until you
come to the junction where you turn left for Staphylos Beach. Instead of
turning left, turn right and walk uphill for about 100 yards. "The
Walnut Tree" is on your left, opposite the Hotel Kavouris and set among
garages and parked cars - but put your trust in the Walnut hospitality: you
won't notice ANY of this once you're inside. Just boldly stalk on in and
enjoy!
David Cade. Canterbury, England (
www.davidcade.net
) -
29/05/2003 |
