At "The Walnut Tree" you don't huddle over your table, whispering to your partner for fear that others may hear. Rather, sit inside where the music is unashamedly loud enough to really be heard and enjoyed, where local Skopeliots are all engaged in lively banter, and SPEAK UP. "The Walnut Tree" is lively, friendly, and down-to-earth, the food is excellent too.

Strictly speaking, "The Walnut Tree" is a Tsipouradiko (not an Ouzeri, nor the usual restaurant). Tsipouro is a stronger form of Ouzo, roughly 44% proof. The Greeks are genuinely more civilized than we northern Europeans so this hard liquor is not downed alone but is traditionally served with an array of meze dishes.

It's fine if you don't want to touch the stuff because "The Walnut Tree" also offers the usual beers, and excellent inexpensive home-made wine by the carafe. But it's important to remember you're in a Tsipouradiko because, along with family groups, you'll probably find a number of hard-working Greeks in there, often still in their overalls, relaxing with relish after a day's work, often singing along with the music, and you mustn't go to "The Walnut Tree" and tut-tut about it's rawness . . . rather, relax, sit back, speak up, smile, laugh, and enjoy the atmosphere!

And just in case you may be worried that things could get a little out of control at "The Walnut Tree", fear not: three charming Greek women, one of whom speaks very good English, keep excellent command. Ask any of them for their recommendations but don't miss their delicious "Skopelos Cheese Pie" - a long coil of tangy goat's cheese and herbs freshly fried in a coat of flaky filo pastry. Try also their long fried peppers stuffed to the stalk with bacon and molten cheese! If you have the stamina for desert then you'll marvel at the thickness of their mixture of yoghourt, honey, and walnuts and wish you could buy yoghourt as thick back home.

Proceed out of town, past the supermarkets and moped-hire shops until you come to the junction where you turn left for Staphylos Beach. Instead of turning left, turn right and walk uphill for about 100 yards. "The Walnut Tree" is on your left, opposite the Hotel Kavouris and set among garages and parked cars - but put your trust in the Walnut hospitality: you won't notice ANY of this once you're inside. Just boldly stalk on in and enjoy!

Average price for a delicious filling meal for two, plus home-made wine: 17 Euros.

David Cade. Canterbury, England.
http://www.davidcade.net
29/05/2003